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Thread: Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

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    Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

    So when warmer weather comes, I plan to swap to TJ front axle shafts in my 95 YJ, weld my front spider gears and install manual locking hubs out front. This way I can get rid of the vacuum 4x4 and 2 piece axle shaft hooplah, lock my front axle in when I wheel and still have the freedom to stick 'er in 2 wheel and commute to work and school without eating up u-joints and more fuel than necessary.

    My problem is that nobody sells manual locking hubs for YJs because of the vacuum axle shaft disconnect deal that YJs come with and because YJs didn't come with manual locking bubs to begin with. Who can I go to for manual locking hubs? I know that there are manual locking hub kits that come with knuckles wheel bearings brake rotors axle shafts and all that junk and those kits are like a grand an axle. My question is isn't there a kit that comes with less parts (like for ex the outer axle shaft and hub/wheel bearing assembly or even just a hub) that's cheaper and doesn't require replacement of most of your outer axle stuff? I guess its either this sort of deal or like an aussie locker or similar/equivalent for the front.
    Last edited by johnsonjeep101; 03-24-2015 at 08:41 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar
    "Stephanie", the 95 yj 4.0, 1.5" lift & 31's. I gave that ditch a jeep. Ditches love jeeps.
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    Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

    The only way to add locking hubs on a D30 is to ditch the unit bearings and convert it to a proper full floating axle with spindles. This essentially means changing everything from the knuckles out. The kits are expensive because, as you noted, there are a lot of parts.

    All that said, it is simply not worth it to spend that kind of to polish a D30 turd. You are farther ahead to build a junkyard D44 that already is full floating with manual hubs. For similar money, you will end up with a lot more axle.

    None of the options to get manual hubs on your jeep are simple or inexpensive. You'd have to REALLY want them.

    For the simplest and most straight forward way to get rid of the open carrier would be to get a manually lockable diff. It's the best of both worlds on and off road. If you wanted to ditch the CAD, you could also get away with running an auto locker as well. You just have to be always mindful of throwing too much money at a D30 while trying to turn it into something it is not. It really depends on what your long term plans are for the jeep and what tire size you want to build for.

    There's lots to ponder.


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    Okay this is what i figured, gotta replace everything knuckles and out for manual locking hubs. D30 arent great but theyre plenty for weekend warrior and daily driver type wheeling which is what ill end up doing. Ill throw an aussie or something at it and ill have a decent weekend rig.

    Eventually i have an 8.8 in mind and when i do convert im gonna find a manual locker. Oxlocker comes to mind when i think about manual mechanical locking diffs. Any better brand suggestions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    Okay this is what i figured, gotta replace everything knuckles and out for manual locking hubs. D30 arent great but theyre plenty for weekend warrior and daily driver type wheeling which is what ill end up doing. Ill throw an aussie or something at it and ill have a decent weekend rig.
    We are all weekend warriors. D30's are great for 33's. 35's and an open diff are still doable. Lock it up with 35's and wheel the rig to its full potential and sooner or later, the front axle parts will start flying. You shouldn't put an auto locker like an aussie in until you ditch the CAD. People have done it but it's not recommended.


    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    Eventually i have an 8.8 in mind and when i do convert im gonna find a manual locker. Oxlocker comes to mind when i think about manual mechanical locking diffs. Any better brand suggestions?
    My preference for a manual locker would be an ARB. They seem to be consistently the very strongest. Your manual locker options are limited to the ARB and the OX for the 8.8, anyway. Not sure if they still make the electric locker for the 8.8 but it was/is absolute garbage.

    Another thing to keep in mind with the 8.8 is that it has C-clips and depending on which locker and gear ratio you go with, it can be a big PITA to try and remove and install them. Many people just do the C-clip eliminator kit or a super 88 kit with C-clip eliminators when they install a locker. The Ox is one of those lockers that is a problem with C-clips and 4.56 and up gears - there is no room to remove the cross pin on the carrier to get at the C-clips when the ring gear is bolted to the carrier. I have heard it is doable somehow with some crazy ingenuity...but C-clips suck, anyway so....

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    If I were you, I'd just leave the front the way it is and add a POSI lock to eliminate the vacuume disconnect. That way there is still less front end drag than with TJ shaft. Many guys run D30's with up to 35's on them as CTD stated with little problem, but go over that and lock it, then you're asking for trouble.

    If I were you, my main focus would be on that rear axle, get an 8.8 in there and you'll have a stout ( for what you want to do ) drive system.
    IT'S TWEETER B!TCHEZ
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    1997 TJ sport Rollin' on 35's "Woah Black Betty"

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    Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    We are all weekend warriors. D30's are great for 33's. 35's and an open diff are still doable. Lock it up with 35's and wheel the rig to its full potential and sooner or later, the front axle parts will start flying. You shouldn't put an auto locker like an aussie in until you ditch the CAD. People have done it but it's not recommended.




    My preference for a manual locker would be an ARB. They seem to be consistently the very strongest. Your manual locker options are limited to the ARB and the OX for the 8.8, anyway. Not sure if they still make the electric locker for the 8.8 but it was/is absolute garbage.

    Another thing to keep in mind with the 8.8 is that it has C-clips and depending on which locker and gear ratio you go with, it can be a big PITA to try and remove and install them. Many people just do the C-clip eliminator kit or a super 88 kit with C-clip eliminators when they install a locker. The Ox is one of those lockers that is a problem with C-clips and 4.56 and up gears - there is no room to remove the cross pin on the carrier to get at the C-clips when the ring gear is bolted to the carrier. I have heard it is doable somehow with some crazy ingenuity...but C-clips suck, anyway so....
    What do you mean CAD? Max tire size for me is 31's and may be 33's a few years down the line. For now im sticking with stock 3.07's but way layer when i lift then ill go to 4.10's.
    Last edited by johnsonjeep101; 03-25-2015 at 10:22 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    What do you mean CAD?
    Central Axle Disconnect.


    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    Max tire size for me is 31's and may be 33's a few years down the line.
    D30 should serve your needs fine.

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    Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

    Quote Originally Posted by CTD NUT View Post
    Central Axle Disconnect.




    D30 should serve your needs fine.
    Yeah d30 i know will do me fine. Where coild i find a limited slip for the front?

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    There is no limited slip for the d30 other than the "true Track" off the top of my head.

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    Buy a HP 30 out of a XJ and weld some $30 spring perches on it. 1 Piece shafts and no CAD. 297X u-joints are cheap and you would be hard pressed to notice a mileage increase just from front hubs.
    If you really want front hubs don't buy a conversion kit, buy Reid's conversion knuckles instead and run stock D44 stuff. You will get bigger brakes and a high steer option.
    2000 XJ 6" lift,strongbox+dana 300, 35 MTR Kevlars, 8.8 swap, lockers.

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    There are more then a few Locking hub Conversion kits out there that work for the YJ and they are all expensive...

    I used the Alloy USA kit for my MJ Front Axle with Chromoly shafts and it was Excellent and you DON NOT HAVE TO SWAP KNUCKLES... If you really want hub conversion then don't listen to the nay sayers and just get it but your better off going with a Lunch box locker and a Posi loc cable and you will still have money to spend...
    1989 Jeep MJ: 4.7L Stroker, 4WD Swap, 97+Conversion, RC Long Arm Upgrade Kit, 35x12.5x18 Mickey Thompson MTZ's, WJ D30, WK SRT8 Rear D44 w/approx. 8" Lift
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    Im not gonna bother finding hub lockers in the future i may consider the Reid's conversion knuckles so i can have high steer but i mean if i go that far and add an Eaton limited slip then why dont i go d44, might as well if im doing it. Or some sort of manual locker and no CAD.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepman View Post
    If you really want hub conversion then don't listen to the nay sayers and just get it but your better off going with a Lunch box locker and a Posi loc cable and you will still have money to spend...
    If you are referring to me as one of the naysayers, I am not. I hate unit bearings and a front driveline that spins all of the time. I did the conversion on my Dodge 3500 because I hate it that much. I was willing to spend the money at that time to make it happen because it was the most straight forward and cost-effective way of doing it.

    I only wanted to point out that the kits to do it are not cheap and investing that much in a D30 really commits you to that axle. That's no big deal if it will meet your needs...you just have to be sure about that before throwing that kind of coin out there...

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    Yeah d30 i know will do me fine. Where coild i find a limited slip for the front?
    Most of the vendors on this site can supply you with a Trutrac LSD.

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    At the end of the day, it all comes down to what your plans are. If you're going bigger than 35's, don't bother throwing money at the d30. If you intend to stay with a 31-33 than, go for it.

    I myself do not see any point in installing manual locking hubs. I'd just leave the front axle as it is and wheel her.
    Like I said, your rear axle should be your first priority. Don't get too ahead of yourself bud.

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    Nah CTD Just Naysayers in General... Your usually fairly unbiased when helping with information...

    I just say naysayers because people on forums can sometimes skew the lines between helping someone with something they want and attacking them for the choice they have made instead of helping them understand the options
    they have...

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    Stock YJ D30 manual locking hub mod???

    Quote Originally Posted by pippilongstocking View Post
    At the end of the day, it all comes down to what your plans are. If you're going bigger than 35's, don't bother throwing money at the d30. If you intend to stay with a 31-33 than, go for it.

    I myself do not see any point in installing manual locking hubs. I'd just leave the front axle as it is and wheel her.
    Like I said, your rear axle should be your first priority. Don't get too ahead of yourself bud.
    Yeah i wouldn't go above 33's. If i need more than 33's ill build an axle out of a more stout platform like a d44 or d70.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonjeep101 View Post
    Yeah i wouldn't go above 33's. If i need more than 33's ill build an axle out of a more stout platform like a d44 or d70.
    IMO a d70 is overkill but I'm sure someone here can verify that for you.

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    Lol i know its overkill but if i want more than 35's then i would be dedicating that rig to whatever im building it for. Max i woild go with this yj is a d44 if i ever choose to do anything.

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